First impressions: Sooryehan The Black Exopert Cream
Testing this was enjoyable, I am particularly grateful that I got the 25ml as a free sample randomly with an order! Probably the best free sample I've got, next to the wallet-destroying Whoo Hwanyu eye cream. Lol.
Cost: StyleJolly as usual; samples at $1.50 ish for 12*1.
I got a 25ml tube as a free sample and it was OOS for ages but is now back in stock at $10 ish for 25ml.
Full size retails at about $25-40, depending on size and where you purchase it.
Note that on Yesstyle, the 50ml is currently at £57, that's right: pounds sterling, not dollars and Stylevana aren't even stocking it now. Koreadepart is undergoing maintenance at present.
Texture
It's super nice to apply, it has that classic soft melting texture. Kinda like the Mary & May Blackberry Cream but way way nicer.
Zero silicones according to the Yesstyle ingredients list. Definitely gets docked points for no siliconey feel, as that is my favourite texture ever.
However, if you're not a fan of that insta-dry siliconey feel, this could work out well.
It's silky to apply, spreads smoothly and absorbs in the way you'd expect for something nicely formulated.
Fragrance
It's not like the Whoo Bichup: the First Moisture Anti-Aging Essence which is doable and the Bichup Ja Yoon cream which is a similar fragrance but outrageously amplified.
The fragrances are undoubtedly the same family, although the serum, essence moisturiser and cream smell slightly different to me.
The cream has a deeper fragrance than the serum and moisturiser. It's more complex. It's a little warmer than the serum, which brings out the floral notes.
There's the faintest, faintest hint of something aniseed. It's barely there and I think it tempers the floral in such a way that it draws out that slight herbal undertone which flowers have, without pushing the sweetness too far forward.
I want to be clear that the cream doesn't smell of aniseed, it's just a balancing note that may or may not be aniseed. It does not smell super aniseedy like the single essence.
Complexity: 3.7/5
Perfumey: Low
Strength: Mid
Floral: High Spice: Low-Mid (Amber, Odile says of the serum)
Herbal: Minimal
Earthiness: Mid
Citrus: x
Fruit: x
Impression: complex, deep floral
In comparison: The Black Serum
Complexity: 3/5
Perfumey: Minimal
Strength: Low-Mid
Floral: Mid
Herbal: Low (upper end)
Spice: Low (upper end)
Earthiness: Low (upper end)
Citrus: x
Fruit: x
Impression: cool floral
As much as I enjoy the differences between the serum and cream, a cool smelling fragrance also really appeals to me. But I'd argue that the cream has the better fragrance.
I personally adore citrus and fruit, which is why the ISA Knox Age Focus serum is so delightful, but The Black line (excepting the Single Essence) is superior.
Experience
Spreads nice, feels nice, moisturises to a pleasant degree.
These are all good things and I think it's a nicely formulated cream with a lot of positive factors.
For combo skin, I think this could be a great option as it spreads and dries nicely. It functions nicely as a moisturiser and it goes very well with the other products from this line, they all work well together - if your skin isn't very dry.
However, it doesn't really suit my very dry skin.
It's too light for my skin as a one and done for PM, even with an emulsion under it, although the Sulwhasoo Timetreasure Invigorating serum plus the cream is fine, as is two light emulsions underneath.
I'd still rather have a siliconey cream, as much as I enjoy using it, because that mix of moisturising plus occlusive and plumping out of the fine lines.
On the other hand, no silicones mean less shininess, even with other siliconey products underneath it so that is a bonus.
And this is a significant bonus because I like a product that respects the dewy - shiny boundary.
Granted, this is a self-defined boundary that doesn't necessarily have that much to do with the products themselves, although some products really are shiny (Hada Labo Perfect Gel, for example).
With regards to the lack of effective moisturising, this is less of an issue AM when there's the addition of sunscreen. It works perfectly fine then, although ideally I'll have reasonably moisturising serums alongside it.
I think my main complaint is that the Essence Moisturiser isn't heavy either so using just four products from the Black line doesn't really hit the spot for my skin.
But I get sucked into a theme and, when I have opportunity, it's fun to do a one line only routine.
In this case, however, it's not enough for older, drier skin imo.
Which makes sense, as it feels like it's aimed more at the late 20s to early 30s range. Although it does have ingredients aimed at anti-aging, I don't think they're as hardcore as things in the higher end lines. That doesn't make it bad, it just makes sense that the formulations aren't super nourishing.
All the products I've tried that are clearly aimed at a more mature age range are much more nourishing, which makes sense as lot of people get drier skin as they get older.
I do think it's good for barrier strengthening, brightening and general skin health, as there's all that lovely niacinamide and the products are reasonably moisturising - just not *very* moisturising.
Going back to my AM routine, I've found that the following works rather nicely and instead of an emulsion, I'm using something AB Muse sent me, the joyous Stratia Interface.
- Cosrx 96 Essence (post face wash, pre main routine)
- Decorte Hydra Clarity Softener (several layers)
- Hera Signia Core Lifting Serum
- Stratia Interface Moisturiser
- Sooryehan The Black Exopert Cream
- Whoo UV Fresh Cream
One complaint from me is that doesn't dry super quick and I have a strong preference for very quick drying siliconey creams. When coupled with the longer drying time for The Black Serum, it can all take a bit too long. I am also likely to add the Isa Knox Age Focus Prime Wrinkle For All Serum if I'm in the office.
I have inherited a fan from my Gran and it's extremely useful because it does shorten drying times. But if there's a real mismatch in temperatures and humidity, I note that the cream becomes a bit of a sweaty mess because it doesn't shrink wrap to my skin.
That, however, is largely a me problem. If your humidity levels and heating and air flow and how hot your have your shower and etc isn't the same as mine, you may not have any issue.
I'm very mindful of the sweaty mess issue after having massive issues one summer - only the shiny Hada Labo Perfect Gel sucked onto my skin and didn't sweat off!
I'll write about this more in a future review but the Hera Signia Core Lifting Cream may be the answer to this issue. But so might the Sekkisei Medicated Cream.
I shall be testing these further because I loathe the moisturiser milk sweat (I am going to call it this because I have almost written sweaty creamy face several times and that feels like it's straying into NSFW terminology).
Final thoughts
I do find the benefits of The Black range stack for calmness generally but as I live in this hard water area for longer, nothing is making a significant visible difference. I'll have days when my skin is calmer and days when it's angry looking.
I've stopped worrying too much about it and I take the calmer days as a bonus.
I really like The Black Exopert as a winter day cream with some, there's not so much shea that it breaks me out in the A-Zone, so it's convenient because I can use it all over my face.
I don't want to repeat myself too much but it really is a nice cream, this is a positive review despite the drawbacks for me personally.
I suspect part of the problem is that I've now tried higher end creams and I noticed the differences in formulation beyond simply the ingredients (and let's not forget my silicone obsession).
Whilst this cream isn't cheap, I think it's appropriately priced for the line and the kinds of ingredients it has - especially if you get the 25ml tube from SJ!
If I got another free sample, I would definitely use it but I'd save it for winter AM to avoid risking the moisturiser milk sweat.
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