Sooryehan Ginseng First Essence First Impressions: The product that changed how I think about skincare

The Sooryehan Ginseng First Essence has blown my mind! If their other products are as awesome as this, I expect I'll be repeating this sentiment often!

About my skin

I usually stick to more affordable products and use a lot of different products to address features like signs of aging, larger pores and CCs, redness and dull skin.

I'm going to call these things I'm addressing "features" rather than "concerns", which is just a personal preference. My skin doesn't need fixing, I just tailor my routine to address certain aspects of it. This may seem a pedantic choice of words but language matters!

I'm 40 with combination skin, prone to CCs but not acne (unless I've used a product that disagrees with me) and my skin is perpetually dehydrated because of the actives I use. My neck is dry, dry as a desert, and very sensitive, so I use an entirely different routine that would be too bland for my face - plus, my neck routine wouldn't address my face skin features.

Cost of the Sooreyhan First Essence

Purchased with my own money from Jolse, $34.00 (converted to GBP through PayPal) for 120ml.

Introduction

I haven't see a lot of content about this brand in the blog world that's written in English. There may well be plenty of blog posts not in English, but Google doesn't find them for me. Even on r/AsianBeauty, there's not a lot of content on Sooryehan.

A redditor whom I hold in high esteem, u/rczc, suggested I try The Black Serum, a more recent release from Sooryehan - and it comes in individual sachets from TesterKorea so it's an easy way to see if a premium product is likely to work or not.

It was a very interesting experience, as I hadn't tried anything premium before and had no idea what to expect!

I started getting into Odile Monod's videos around the same time and she made a persuasive argument for Sooryehan as a brand.

The allure of using something which has, as Odile says, so much R&D behind it is strong - I know manufacturer studies can show bias, a governmentally regulated industry (such as ginseng in Korea) could potentially show bias. But I'll put my faith what Odile has said about the stringency of regulation to protect the quality and heritage of Korean ginseng.

I've definitely used products with ginseng that have not given my skin such amazing resilience or really any major effects beyond some glow. Sure, sure, I'll rave about glow until the sun goes down (and comes back up again) but I didn't know what I was missing until I tried the Ginseng First Essence.

I'll review The Black Serum separately, once I've used it for longer but the first impression TL;DR is that it has a thick, almost syrupy texture and improves in glow the longer you leave it on your skin (thanks, rczc!), which I'll come back to this point later in here in relation to the Ginseng First Essence. Both products have some ingredients that I wouldn't necessarily expect to find in a serum, based on my previous experience with serums.

Towards the end of this review, I'll sum up why the Ginseng First Essence has changed the way I think about skincare.

Packaging

Description of the packaging so it's accessible for people who can't see photos but also because I like describing things.

The box is beautiful: golden and embossed. It both looks premium and feels premium - I couldn't resist running my hands over the embossing. I'd imagine it's not very recyclable, as there's a plastic coating over the gold cardboard. On the other hand, it's a large 120ml bottle and you don't actually need to use much product to cover your face - one pump would do it (admittedly I often use more than one pump). So maybe it will last a while, reducing repurchases?

The bottle is a shapely glass affair, a classic vase which is wider at the top and narrowing towards the bottom. It is a gorgeous gold, dissolving into gold glitter that is diffused and scattered to reveal a deeper ombre towards the base.

It's very stylish with minimal text and to compensate for the limited information on the bottle, Sooryehan have included a leaflet with an explanation of the ginseng range and ingredient list. I don't think I've ever bought a product that contains a printed insert!

Texture & Feel 

Although this is called a First Essence, I'm going to refer to it as a serum. It has a serum texture and contains ingredients that I'd want to use after all my water-based products, which I'll explain in the next section.

I expected it to be super thin, watery: generally like a first treatment essence that preps your skin for the rest of your routine and would therefore dry very quickly. All this based on the term "First Essence" and not based on the ingredient list, which I scanned for ingredients I avoid and i didn't really pay attention to what ingredients it actually had (beyond that Odile rates the ginseng by this brand, not specifically this product, but Sooryehan generally). This lack of properly checking ingredients lists will be a common theme in my reviews - it leads to me gleeful purchases that I can't actually use. Oh well, my friends are grateful for free skincare! Lol.

The texture is syrup, it's honey, it's luscious and decadent. It has complexity but applies lightly, spreadable, so smooooth. As it warms on your skin, it becomes more liquid, more supple. It almost melts into your skin, becoming invisible as it dries - it doesn't feel like you've applied something so thick and syrupy. No annoying stickiness, even as it dries.

Using a more premium product is so different to entry level brands. I don't intend to be negative about products I've enjoyed using previously but the texture of the Sooryehan is next level. Obviously, if you're used to brands like this, the texture and feel won't be such a revelation. However, my usual serums are from brands like Beauty of Joseon, Isntree and Mary & May - much more watery, much less substantial.

Using the Sooryehan makes me somewhat reconsider my previous serum products: why don't the more watery or more oily-feeling serums feel this good? Is this the Goldilocks of texture - not too thin, not too thick, lusciously hydrating and also protecting?

Some of the more entry level product textures come down to extracts, ingredients and whether the formulators might be limited by what carrier works, like u/solskinnratel says for azelaic acid:

"For those who don't know, azelaic acid is quite difficult to use in a liquid based formula because it doesn't really like to dissolve well in most things at a normal room temp"

But I'm mostly talking about serums that could be as wonderful as the Sooreyhan texture but aren't - whilst some of it likely comes down to ingredient solubility and stabilisation, I imagine some of it comes down to cost and what consumers expect from a serum. Plus, something so thick might not be appropriate for younger or oily skin - my older skin definitely appreciates it, though.

Although I got the Sooreyhan at what I consider a good price for the size ($35 ish on Jolse), it's not cheap. Especially not if you compare it to a 150ml "essence" like the Beauty of Joseon Ginseng Water essence or a big serum 150ml serum like the Papa Recipe Blemish serum.

Neither of those products I've mentioned above are anywhere near as nice as the Sooreyhan. And of course there's the whole thing about ingredients to consider, which I'll discuss next.

Ingredients

There are reasons to avoid the Sooreyhan if you have sensitivities: alcohol, silicone, fragrance and a ton of extracts, all in one neat package! This could be the worst product ever for some people but not for me :)

I think all of those things together, plus the formulation, is what gives it such an impressive texture. And I haven't even started on what makes this serum particularly special: the ginseng.

I've linked to Odile Monod above on Sooreyhan as a brand. Part of the reason I purchased this product is because of Odile's reviews of Sooreyhan, and my good experience with The Black Serum. She talks about the use of ginseng generally in Sooreyhan's products, particularly the Hyobidam line, and I'll have reviews coming up the toner & emulsion from that line, as I've purchased minis to trial.

I'm apt to believe - to some extent - the marketing copy that Sooreyhan publishes for their products, partly because Odile Monod rates them! They say they use wild ginseng - check Odile's video I mention above on, as she says wild has more beneficial "actives" than cultivated.

Ginseng can smooth fine lines and even skin tone, both of which are great properties - here's some information on red ginseng, which is an extract in this essence, albeit quite low down the ingredient list, should that really mean anything.

There's also some classic brightening ingredients like niacinamide and liquorice, but I bought this for the ginseng!

I've Google translated the ingredient list, taken from the insert. If you have sensitivities, allergies or ingredients you avoid, please do your own research and don't rely on this ingredient list!

Purified water, dipropylene glycol, glycerin, denatured alcohol, butylene glycol, niacinamide, 1,2-hexanediol, panthenol, phenyltrimethicone, acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin Triethylhexanoin Adenosine Xanthan Gum, Sodium Polyacrylate Maxtrin, Cacao Seed Extract, *Ginsenoside, Ginseng Extract (42.33ppm)*, Mulberry Bark Extract, *Red Ginseng Extract*, Schizandra chinensis Root Extract, Leaf Extract , mung bean seed extract, gwanggwakhyang leaf extract, sapju rhizome extract, angelica root extract, Spanish licorice root extract, peony root extract, peony root extract, plantain extract, peach seed extract, golden extract, bokryeonggyunnucleus extract, sky tari root extract, apricot seed extract, quince extract, gobon licorice extract, cornus officinalis fruit extract, goji berry extract, rehmannia root extract, cinnamon bark extract, persimmon leaf extract, matsutake mushroom extract, sylvatica fruit extract, ginger extract, oyster shell extract, tangerine extract, carob fruit extract, mugwort leaf extract, green tea extract, chrysantellum indacum extract, tromethamine, fragrance, limonene, linalool

Fragrance

The fragrance is noticeable - I used to avoid fragrance completely, thinking I was allergic and I'm probably not. Sooreyhan's The Black Serum was my first fragranced product and I had no issues with it.

The scent of The Black Serum is nicer, in my opinion. It's more subtle and you can barely smell it until you've warmed up the serum.

With the Ginseng First Essence, the aroma is more perfumey - I don't dislike it but it's much more apparent.

Now I've used it for longer, I'm actually enjoying the scent and noticing the complexity of the fragrance. It's sweeter than I first thought and less perfumey.

What Step?

In the insert, it says right after cleansing. On the EN Sooreyhan website, it says after toner.

I've been using it after toner and any other watery products, including serums (although I've stopped using other serums, which I'll talk more about below).

I've also tried it right after cleansing in a very short routine with The Black Serum too. More in this below!

I tend to use watery steps before this serum and I'll use it last before cream. It absolutely hasn't pilled, even over products with oil (Hakutsuru+ Dr Ceuracle).

However, to be safe, I'd avoid using too much oil or too many thick products before the Ginseng First Essence. 

And I haven't noticed any pilling when I use products after the serum either - but I let it dry down before I apply anything else and I stick to very well-formulated products after.

Some products it works well with )my key routine products right now):

• Cosrx AHA Whitehead Power liquid 
• Missha Artemisia Calming essence and mist
• Mixsoon Bifida toner
• Hakutsuru Daiginjo Medicated Sake Whitening Lotion
• I'm From Rice toner

I am also using Sooryehan The Black Serum (not regularly yet) and Sooryehan Bon Firming Cream (only just started using this). 

My retinal is Geek & Gorgeous A-game 5 and it seems to work well with the Ginseng First Essence (I apply the Geek & Gorgeous just before moisturiser, not a recommendation, just what I do - it kinda buffers the retinal). 

 Experience

Smoothing this onto my face is an event. It feels luxe and substantial, I spend a few minutes either gently tapping it or gently massaging it into my skin, so it warms up nicely - which might have an impact on the effect of the product, might not, but it feels nice!

Most of my steps because cream are pretty watery and also comparatively low cost, so I tend just to slap / smooth / press them and move on to my next step whilst the prior step is still pretty wet .

I try to let whatever I've used before this essence dry a bit more and allow the Sooreyhan to dry completely or almost completely (time permitting) before moving on with the rest of my routine.

If I let the Sooreyhan properly dry, I get a very smooth surface and spreading my next product is just dreamy ❤️ even if it's not completely dry, there aren't issues, I just prefer that super smooth feeling. Even Illiyoon ATO Ceramide Concentrate cream, which I've complained can sometimes tug if the surface of my skin is too dry (so I'll need to use a lot of it) will glide.

That gorgeous smooth surface is probably down to the silicones and alcohol but it's not drying. I can actually use less moisturiser if I use the Sooryehan. frequently incorporate multiple creams in my routine but I've been using less and less since starting it.

I really, really like it - and it seems to be helping (along with nightly Cosrx 92 snail cream) to plump out my fine lines, especially given I stopped using actives for a week or so whilst I was healing a complicated breakout.

I'm absolutely back on the actives now the breakout has subsided. And that's for several reasons - I'm noticing a slight loss of volume in my eye bag area. Plus, I want to know how far I can decrease my usual 20 step (no joke) routine if I have Sooryehan in the mix.

Its been over a week of a much shorter routine - no noticeable dryness, itching or tightness. I intend to stick with this and I'll do updates as I start switching out my entire routine for Sooryehan, as the products arrive.

The Dream Routine

Ok, here's where it gets a bit weird. Not long after I bought the Sooryehan essence, I had a dream about it!

In my dream, I just used the Ginseng First Essence and The Black Serum. That's literally it. And my skin was radiant 🤣

I decided to try it out, although adding sunscreen - apparently dream me didn't think sunscreen was important and didn't apply any 🤷🏻‍♀️

I keep a skincare spreadsheet which I try to update daily with what I've used. Apparently I didn't write down which sunscreen I used that day. I figure it was one of the more moisturising ones, given I didn't use a cream.

Here's the thing: my skin felt fine all day. No irritation, no dryness - maybe a tiny bit of dehydration because I didn't use toner but it wasn't problematic and my skin didn't feel uncomfortable.

I definitely think I could have done with some toner, though. But all round: I'm pretty impressed that I only used two products plus sunscreen and I had no significant issues.

After the success of the Dream Routine, I've had a bit of a Sooryehan shopping frenzy. Oops.

I've ordered samples of the Sooreyhan Hyobidam Fermented toner, Hyobidam Fermented emulsion (because it came with the toner) and The Black Serum. Oh and a full size of the Bon Firming Cream - it's one of the few hanbang creams I've seen that doesn't have shea butter in it (shea is kryptonite for my skin, CCs everywhere). And an out of date mini cleanser (Sooryehan Chunsam Golden Cleansing Foam) - it was cheap because it's out of date. I'm still gonna try it but maybe on my arm first, to be safe.

Why it's changed how I think about skincare

I have a super long routine and I'm happy about that. I know a long routine isn't appropriate, possible or budget friendly for a lot of people. But it is for my skin and I've largely used much more entry level products like Cosrx and Isntree up to now.

I'll spend more on first essences, like Missha Artemisia. And some of my favourite products are very cost effective for the amount you get, particularly Japanese brands like Cezanne, Hakutsuru and Hada Labo.

I didn't actually think I'd ever have a short routine because my skin needs tons of hydration but using Sooryehan has taught me a few things.

A really well formulated product can replace a number of other products - I can cut back toner, serum and moisturiser for sure.

I tend to use multiple creams so reducing back on moisturiser, with no ill effects, despite the various actives I use (AHA, BHA and retinal) has been a game-changer.

More testing is required as I've only started cutting back on my product usage recently - I'll do updates in future posts, of course!

I think my point here is that, for me, better products equal a shorter routine. I can't believe I'm saying this! I've had a long routine since I started AB and I've maintained that the long routine is just what my skin needs and also what I enjoy (applying lots of products is just fun for me). What's more I actually enjoy the application of this one product over using lots of products. But it turns out - in my experience so far - that a very well formulated product can genuinely replace multiple entry level products. In all honesty, I'm almost annoyed at this realisation. I feel like my skincare paradigms have been turned upside down and I'm having to rethink everything I presumed was solid facts about my skin. Except, of course, I can't be annoyed because the Ginseng First Essence is so joyful!

(Probably Superficial) Analysis Section

I've said that the Ginseng First Essence might not be appropriate for all budgets, skin types or skin conditions, or even all ages. For me, however, it suits my skin and, at 120ml, I feel it's pretty good value for the price I paid. 

Because of it's thick texture (so I can use less), I can see it lasting quite a while. Further, if it allows me to reduce my routine, I'll be using less products and so I'll be reducing my consumption of skincare, too.

With my initial experience with Sooryehan, I'm betting that I should be able to switch all of my face products to Sooryehan - based on my experience with the Dream Routine, I may only need a bit of toner to round out my routine.

I don't know Sooryehan's market position or their target consumer profile. The packaging and formulation suggests it's likely to be older consumers (over 40 perhaps?) and the pricing says people with more disposable income (lower middle class to middle class, maybe, if we were transliterating it to the UK).

I'm not especially feminine, I do wear dresses but they tend to be along a retro, rockabilly aesthetic and brightly coloured. Plus, I'm a former goth. The Black Serum fits my aesthetic much better, if I were to choose based on packaging alone!

I like the luxe packaging of the Ginseng First Essence - it aligns with my impression, from Odile, that it contains high quality ingredients. The quality of the ingredients is why I purchased this product. But it also makes me feel fancy to have it on display and to keep it in the box - each time I use it gives me a little thrill of pleasure!

Both the packaging and the product itself feels sophisticated. I'm a clumsy oaf, very loud, I don't have a tinkly laugh (it's a cackle), I'm not well versed in social graces and there's a reason my partner endlessly jokes that I'm a) Princess Fiona (when she was an ogre) and b) a bog witch. And, In all honesty, I don't think of myself as the sort of person who would use a product like this but I'm a big fan of efficacy and, now, complex formulations. Basically, everything about this product doesn't fit with my self image.

One way of viewing this product is through the lens of a western aspirational consumer experience: with this product, I can imagine that I could be the woman who has got it together, who has this beautiful house with a vanity and all the trappings of that sophisticated life. It's the price point, the beautiful formulation and the stylish packaging: it all signals luxe, above my station and out of price range (even though I can afford it). It's an advertising fantasy - a modern myth, churned out to make us accumulate more things by showing us the gap between our current lifestyle and what is positioned as desirable, what we could attain. Plus, it's not something I would want, either - from a personal point of view, it's not just that I am very far from the embodiment of stereotypical femininity, it's that I also reject it intellectually.

I'm not saying anyone should reject or accept what attributes have been ascribed (in recent history) to women - just that I reject it. It's not for me. And this is the complicated by the fact that although I'm calling aspects of my skin "features", I'm still seeking to address fine lines even as I critique femininity. That may well make me look hypocritical. Absolutely. I haven't reconciled it. I don't reconcile it.

I am Schödinger's feminist: I hold both contradictory positions as true at the same time (until you open the box and the wave collapses - but then where does it leave me?)

And to be clear, I'm not saying that any of this is what Sooryehan is doing, I'm not making the company responsible for promulgating a kind of femininity I reject (and also accept, cf. Schrödinger's feminism). I mean, I could say something about postmodernism and complicitous critiques of dominant culture (shout out to all Linda Hutcheon fans out there)...

Either way, I'm buying the products because they have such a wonderful feel and effect on my skin. I just want to be mindful of this constellation of ideas and because it's my blog so I can write about whatever the hell I like!

Final Thoughts

I'm already a massive fan of Sooreyhan products and keen to try all the stuff I've ordered. Obviously.

The products I've tried so far are good enough that I think I can get away with a pared back routine: but time will tell if it's enough for me longer term.