Categorising cream textures and texture reviews

This is a meandering post on face creams, it's not a review as such but some general comparisons of beautiful creams - mostly about textures.

(If anyone wants swatches, please comment. I personally don't find them that helpful but the real reason I haven't done them is that I'll never actually get this post up otherwise! I may be going largely photo-free in future because it's even more time-consuming than the writing...)

I'm slightly obsessed with categorising products as I like a framework that I can slot creams into because it refines my thinking about products. 

I find it helpful to think about how textures compare as it narrows down what I'm looking for and gives me something a bit more defined to work with when I'm making comparisons for people.

Naturally, my categories are a personal shorthand and if you have thoughts on how to name these, let me know!

Some of these creams may straddle more than one category so I've gone with the predominant feature.

Types

Products included in each category are under the headings (in alphabetical order)

Siliconey

• Sooryehan The Black Essence Moisturiser
• Sooryehan Bon Firming Cream
• Sooryehan Hyobidam Fermented Emulsion & Cream 
• The History of Whoo Bichup Ja Yoon cream (although it's not super siliconey, it belongs here)

Classic soft

• Sooryehan The Black Exopert Cream
• Sulwhasoo Overnight Vitalising Mask
• The History of Whoo Gongjinhyang Seol Radiant White Cream

Soft to silicone

• Sooryehan Chunsam Sanghwang Cream
• The History of Whoo Cheongidan Radiant Regenerating Cream 

Elastic

• Isa Knox Age Focus Prime Polynoid Wrinkle cream  

Gel to oil

• Whoo Jinyulhyang Intensive Revitalising Cream

Background

I've always seen moisturisers as a means to an end: add some emollients, lock in earlier steps. 

Prior to luxe, the best thing I'd used - the most effective at locking stuff in - was Illiyoon ATO Ceramide Concentrate cream. 

And I'm not knocking it, it worked great. But I needed something underneath to do the actual moisturising business and that was with combo skin. 

Even the Hada Labo Perfect Gel, which I'd still recommend for combo or oilier skin, in super humid weather, didn't actually do much in the way of moisturising for me.

Since my first luxe cream, Sooryehan's Bon Firming cream, I was impressed that one thing could do both. 

It's still a great product, I still use it: it's just a bit shiny for day time use and not enough for quite dry skin PM as a one-and-done (although I'm attempting making peace with the shiny, let's call it glowy and dewy. The problem is that I grew up with matte skin as the desired finish and, like thin brows, it's hard to shake formative beauty standards).

There's been some great textures along the way, like the Mary & May Blackberry Intense cream and the By Wishtrend Pro-Biome balance cream (now called Propolis Energy cream I think).

Then there's been fun textures, like the Abib Rice Overnight jelly cream (although it broke me out, damn the fermented rice bran and thanks to AB Muse for figuring that out). 

And there's the personal disappointments: Aestura 365 Barrier cream looked to do what Illiyoon did but more moisturising. It locked in my earlier steps and was more moisturising but it also broke me out.

So what do luxe creams do that the others didn't?

Firstly, and I hope this doesn't jinx it, the only luxe cream to break me out has been the Sulwhasoo Vitalising Overnight Mask. Nothing from LG has caused me issues so far. 

I had thought that the Hyobidam caused issues for the more combo bits of skin but it's hard to tell. My skin is somewhat red and somewhat bumpy, it's just the way of it. If creams are contributing to that, I'll live with it because my top priority is comfortable skin that doesn't feel super oily. 

With the richer creams, I don't have to apply more than one. Whilst the Bon Firming cream managed that for less dry combo skin with soft water, all I needed to do for drier skin with hard water was upgrade it to the Sooryehan Hyobidam Fermented cream. Easy!

I will add an emulsion because I have emulsion to spare and I enjoy it, although it's not really necessary with the richer creams.

The reason I like the Sooryehan's creams so much is that silicones really lock in moisture for me and keep my skin moisturised overnight (I'm a side sleeper and a lot of creams rub off). It feels like a protective film and I seek silicones in every step. It does exactly what the Sooryehan Bon Firming cream did for me when I had less dry skin but works for drier skin! 

A lot of products aimed at younger consumers, especially toners and serums, don't have silicones so I was delighted to discover that almost all the luxe things I've tried have silicones, even toners! 

Now on to my categories which, in my opinion, is the fun bit - well, it must be or why bother writing this 🤣

Siliconey textures 

• Sooryehan The Black Essence Moisturiser
• Sooryehan Bon Firming Cream
• Sooryehan Hyobidam Fermented Emulsion & Cream 
• The History of Whoo Bichup Ja Yoon cream (although it's not super siliconey, it belongs here)

The siliconey textures of some Sooryehan and Whoo creams are what I seek out for both that fine line plumping and TEWL-preventing, emollient-packed protective goodness.

I tend to find silicones, in luxe creams, help plump fine lines so they are less prominent. I didn't especially notice this as an effect with siliconey non-luxe creams and I definitely found that Illiyoon doesn't have that effect when I've used it recently. 

I very occasionally go back to the non-luxe stuff if I've had a skin emergency - like a breakout that's more than just one pimple or some kind of other reaction. I don't tend to have a lot of issues but I also test new products weekly so it can happen.

In the siliconey category (in order of least to most moisturising) are Sooryehan The Black Essence Moisturiser, Sooryehan Hyobidam Fermented Emulsion, Sooryehan Hyo Spring-water cream, Sooryehan Bon Firming cream, Sooryehan Hyobidam Fermented cream and Whoo Bichup Ja Yoon cream.

Note: the Hyo Spring-water may have a new formula and definitely has a slightly different name, could be Hyobidam or now AD.

Although I'm talking about things that come under the "cream" category here, the Sooryehan Hyobidam Fermented Emulsion and The Black Essence Moisturiser also have that lovely siliconey texture, although, as you'd expect, they're much lighter than the creams. 

When I had classic combo skin with soft water and significant humidity, the Sooryehan Hyobidam Fermented Emulsion was my go-to day cream. I've been using The Black Essence Moisturiser this summer but it's not quite enough for my skin, I like it so I've been using it daily regardless. It's definitely better when I add a little of one of the Whoo creams I'm testing currently, which I'll write more about below.

I've recently found layering The Black Essence Moisturiser and Hyobidam Emulsion works great in 30C/86F plus weather.

The Bichup, however, feels lighter (silicone-wise) than both Sooryehan creams so if one is not a fan of siliconey textures, like AB Muse, the Bichup is much more acceptable but the fragrance is outrageous.

Link to AB Muse's siliconey un-preference post

I will say the Hyo Spring-water is a very nice as day cream in full summer, although it's a touch shiny for day time use but then so are most things because of pilling on the silicones but also probably other ingredients too, like propranediol and maybe glycerin.

I personally adore that siliconey feeling but I'll accept that the Bichup is better balanced and the more superior formulation. It also has a more superior price! 

However, whilst the Bichup cream is the absolute best cream with the best balance of all moisturising elements that I've tried and I'm going to have to say that I really dislike the fragrance.

I keep lusting after that texture and also, if the Bichup was more impressive than the Hyobidam, what if there's something better again? What if the next step up for Sooryehan and Whoo are divine and perfect and do everything I want?

Cue an order of three Whoo creams and Sooryehan's Chunsam cream!

The Hyobidam cream is excellent but after trying the Whoo Cheongidan and Jinyulhyang creams, as well as the Sooryehan Chunsam, I realise the Hyobidam isn't quite moisturising enough. I want a bit more oil or butter than it delivers. 

Classic Soft

• Sooryehan The Black Exopert Cream 
• Sulwhasoo Overnight Vitalising Mask 
• Whoo Gongjinhyang Seol Radiant White Cream

All of these have a soft cream texture, a classic texture you'd associate with a moisturiser. It's nice to apply as its easy to smooth across your skin and sinks in weightlessly (for me, less dry skin might have a different experience)

To my everlasting disappointment, Sooryehan's The Black Exopert cream these are much too light for my skin and not at all siliconey. If you have a normal skin type and aren't a fan of the siliconey feeling, this could be a great cream for you.

For the Black Exopert Cream, as it doesn't have that siliconey feeling so I'm on the fence. It's relatively well-priced for a Sooryehan cream and isn't as shiny as the silicone creams so it's on the back burner as a possible winter day cream. 

The Black range has a cumulative calming effect when I use all three products, though, hence the consideration of using all three! 

I have also developed the habit of teaming The Black Exopert cream with one of my thicker creams because I want the calming benefits but also the heavy moisturising effects of a thicker cream.

It does seem outrageous to do so but the benefits of The Black range really do stack.

I may have a solution that doesn't involve multiple creams (or maybe two of the less costly ones), although I'm still in the process of testing it out. I'll come back to this at the end.

The Sulwhasoo has an adorable texture, it's thick but totally spreadable and just melts onto my skin. It's very moisturising, has an amazing lemon torte fragrance with a herbal note - like someone has put a sprig of herb on top of your torte. At least the mini from TK does anyway.

I would have probably just stopped at this if it didn't break me out. I'm tempted to give it another try as my skin seems even drier than before....

I don't have that much to say about the Gongjinhyang Seol except that it's pleasant to use and has a super fresh, lime type fragrance, which I absolutely love.

Even as a summer cream, it was on the light side, although it does dry down very nicely.

In Odile's guides, there's usually a recommended age range. Whilst the Bichup line doesn't have an age range, anti-aging is mentioned. 

For the Gongjinhyang Seol, there's no mention of age or anti-aging generally, it's targeted towards pigmentation. So if you don't need anything too heavy and want to work on pigmentation, this might be a good fit for you. 

Link to Odile's post on the Gongjinhyang Seol line

Noticing the details in Odile's post hammered home the point that I have to accept that it's not really suitable for my older skin. And that's a shame because it is just nice to use and it's one of the best fragrances - citrus is so appealing to me.

Soft to silicone finish

• Sooryehan Chunsam Sanghwang Regenerating Cream 
• The History of Whoo Cheongidan Radiant Regenerating Cream

The Chunsam is undoubtedly thick and it may be that it's super easy to apply because it's the summer: even my tub of 100% shea butter is a beautiful melts-to-oil with a little pressure and that stuff was solid when I bought it earlier this year.

However, that being said, at the moment, the Chunsam has a delightfully soft that just melts into the skin.

What's interesting about this one - and I'm having to guess here because I can't find ingredients in English - is that even if silicones are high up the list, it doesn't apply like it and you're massaging it in and it begins to dry, it has a siliconey finish!

I'm very pleased with it, although the full size is difficult to find in a place that will ship to the UK and the minis are now out of stock on TesterKorea.

I do have a 10ml is lightly used and two further 10mls so I have got plenty for now. A kind Redditor pointed out that there's a set for $15 with a 20ml cream and four other 20mls. I'd looked at this but discounted it because it only has one cream. But then it's also four more Sooryehan products to try so what's my problem!

I think I'll have to give the Chunsam a longer test and let's face it, I've got plenty and don't need any more cream right now 😊

Whoo's Cheongidan cream sort of fits this category - it definitely goes on soft and has a slightly siliconey texture as it dries.

It's by far the thickest, creamiest texture of the lot: it has a whipped butter texture that isn't siliconey at all out the packet. 

In fact, it's the only thing I've tried that has a butter texture out of the packet - you know when you put a knife into butter and it ripples against itself? It's absolutely like that.

It's seriously moisturising and probably a tied favourite with the Chunsam, although I'm using the Cheongidan as an eye cream instead. More on this below.

Elastic

• Isa Knox Age Focus Prime Polynoid Wrinkle Cream

I should say that to some degree, the Sooryehan Hyobidam Fermented Cream has an elastic texture, although I've included it in the siliconey category because that's its predominant feature for me.

Technically, I could include the Isa Knox in the siliconey category too, as it does have that kind of formula and finish, although not to the same extent as Sooryehan. 

And I have this sub-siliconey feeling independently verified as AB Muse enjoyed the Isa Knox but doesn't like those siliconey textures!

For the texture of an elastic cream, think snail.

It's got that stretchy quality that is reminiscent of the Cosrx 92 snail cream.

The comparison stops there, however. 

The Isa Knox has a refined texture that is neither sticky to apply nor is it prone to pilling.

Whilst I didn't find the Cosrx that sticky, it took ages to dry and pills. I've tried it since I started luxe and it just doesn't work with the better products. None of the luxe stuff has pilled and that's across every brand including using different brands together.

The Isa Knox dries really quickly and dries down fully (as do all the luxe creams with one exception which I'll discuss below).

I'm not 100% convinced that the retinol aspect of this cream does the job for me. However, I'll need to come back to it when I'm not exploring new creams and give it an extended test. 

I don't think a month is long enough to tell at all and I've had older retinol/al products that I've been trying to avoid wasting, although I'd rather use the Isa Knox because it's delightful! 

Even if the cream doesn't get a perma-spot in my routine, I absolutely love the serum from this line. I really must get round to reviewing it.

Gel to oil

• The Whoo Jinyulhyang Intensive Revitalizing Cream 

This has an intriguing texture, it comes out the packet and it has the look of a gel (a thick gel).

But on application, it fully melts into an oily texture. I'd go further: it feels like it dissolved into an oil.

It's odd because I don't like creams that have an oily texture and even the soft textured creams don't feel oily on application.

But this? It does feel oily and it feels nice. Although it doesn't dry down. Or at least it doesn't seem to on me.

I've complained, in the past, that oily feeling creams that don't dry down end up rubbing off my face overnight and do a poor job as I wake up with dry cheeks.

Not so with this Whoo: it doesn't feel like it dries down but it did keep my skin moisturised. I strongly suspect that the formulation matters a lot here. I did use an emulsion with silicones first so that might also help, although adding something light with silicones didn't when I used non-luxe so I think it's down to formulation.

Eye area plumping: sleep creases

Luxe creams definitely plump out my eye area, particularly the ones aimed at older consumers or above entry level (no luck here really with Sooryehan's Bon Firming cream and The Black Exopert cream or Whoo's Gongjinhyang Seol Radiant White cream).

I find I'm less prone to serious sleep creases around the side I sleep on with the midrange creams (Whoo's Cheongidan particularly and the Jinyulhyang to a lesser extent). And this is an immediate effect, with only a couple of uses.

Creams need to pack some serious power to plump up my eye area overnight. I am a side sleeper and I must just roll over to the side that suffers worse with sleep creases, even when I fall asleep on the other side! 

Whilst the worst of the creases smooth out by the time I've completed my morning routine, the fine lines on that side are much more prominent so anything that plumps that area is something I'll want to consider long term.

Even my beloved Sooryehan Hyobidam Fermented cream, whilst being excellent in every other way, only partially wards off those creases overnight.

Non-luxe creams are, in fact, even worse at this so I'm not knocking any of the siliconey Sooryehan or Whoo creams mentioned above.

Interestingly, I did my first peel (17%) and used all non-luxe products after because I wanted to avoid alcohol and fragrance to be super safe, and yet my sleep creases still stayed plump in the morning!

I attribute this to using the Cheongidan twice a day. I definitely don't attribute it to retinal or other actives because it was dramatic and within a few days of starting the Cheongidan.

I love the effect on my sleep creases and the obvious option is to keep using the Cheongidan.

However, I'm always up for experimenting and I noted that the Cheongidan has cupuaca butter higher up the ingredient list than any other cream that I've used (to my knowledge).

After being disappointed with the packaging of a La Roche Posay body lotion that has 20% shea butter, I bought a tub of 100% shea butter to replace it (along with a cheap body lotion).

This has worked excellently so I got cupuaca butter to see if that was what was helping. According to a study, it helps skin retain water far better than shea so it may be plumping.

I strongly suspect it's the formulation of the Cheongidan and not just the cupuaca, but I can use the butter on my body if it doesn't work out and get a pot of the Cheongidan for my eye area.

Summing Up

I clearly went moisturiser-crazy recently. 

And it's all the fault of the Bichup cream for being utterly perfect apart from the fragrance which had me hunting down other options.

I'm kinda glad the fragrance is unacceptable to me otherwise I probably wouldn't have tried all of these creams. And I would have been the poorer for it because it's been great knowing zip about any of these new creams and trying them anyway! 

So far, the Cheongidan is the most impressive big I will do an updated post when I've trialled the cupuaca butter in the Cheongidan spot, eye area only. I would use it all over but there's a chance it broke me out around my nose, so that needs a retest too. 

It could just be that it's too hot for pure butter on my face right now. It would be super simple for winter if I could just use the Hyobidam cream plus the cupuaca. That's right, I'm already trying to prepare myself for winter because I would like to have a game plan for it and I'd love the Hyobidam to be my forever cream: it's (relatively) cheap and delightful. 

I may also have more to say about the Jinyulhyang and Chunsam then too as I'm going to give them a more thorough trial.